Mile Zero and Beyond

The ride this morning started a little later than usual, in a steady downpour. Everything was muddy and wet, and I was really glad that we had been able to park under a canopy at the hotel... it kept us dry until the moment we were ready to go.

I noticed over the last couple days crossing Alberta that all of the people directing traffic at the road construction sites were young ladies in their late teens or early 20s. They wore makeup and were very pretty. Whoever sat in the safety meetings and proposed that the drivers would pay more attention to the “Slow” sign if it were attached to a pretty young lady should have got a big raise... it really worked. Most of them would make eye contact, wave and smile at you. Of course, being a gentleman, you'd do just as they directed. I had noticed a sign when we entered Alberta that was a reversal of the “slow down, my daddy works here” signs I'd seen in the US... this one had picture of a man with his daughter and said “slow down, my daughter works here”

It rained until after we passed the “Mile Zero” city of Dawson Creek, the start of the Alaska Highway. We took our photos under the mandatory stop at the “start of the Alaska Highway” sign, then it was off on the toughest part of the trip – 1500 miles of bumps, potholes, gravel and construction zones, with few opportunities for gas. We experience all of those on day 1.

When you leave Dawson Creek the road starts out just like any other after you leave a small town, but soon the houses and farms along the sides of the road end and you are just riding between the trees, with only the occasional building or turnout... The gas stops we read about in the guide book were usually little more than a 40 year old gas pump connected to an above ground tank. I stopped at one such place and went in a restaurant and they sent a boy out to unlock the pump for me. It was a good thing we stopped there because that was the last open gas station for 120 miles. The next 3 were out of business.

Dad didn't get gas there (it was $5 per gallon, which seems to be normal for up here) and at the 3^rd closed gas stop there was a highway sign saying “check your fuel – next services 100km” He didn't have enough fuel! Fortunately I did have one extra gallon in the gas cans I carry on the back so I knew if he could get half way there we'd be able to add what I had and make the distance. Well, not only did he make it there, he found an extra half a gallon of gas in his tank, because his trip computer was reading “zero miles fuel left” for about 1/3 of the 62 miles.

We stopped for gas and I filled my tank, plus both of my 2 gallon gas cans I have been carrying for 2900 miles – I really need them now! When we got to the edge of town there was another sign - “check your fuel – next services 253km” I can only go 220km on a full tank of fuel on my scooter! I also decided we'd better plan our trip more carefully. We have to be able to make it more than just one stop... I will have enough fuel to go 350 miles, or about 500km. It is 600km to the next major town! Our strategy will include slowing down and stretching the fuel that we can carry. On a motorcycle your speed mades a huge difference on your mileage. If we can stick to the speed limit we can go quite a bit further... but it's hard on a 2-lane road with nothing ahead of you and big trucks behind you to go just the speed limit.

Tonight we are in a campground in Ft. Nelson, BC. We are camped next to a group of riders from Seattle, WA who are riding their Kawasaki Dual Purpose motorcycles to Prudhoe Bay. The campground manager asked us to put our tents right next to theirs so he could pack the most people in this grassy area as possible, so we pulled up next to them and practically set up right against their tents – obviously that made it really easy to get to know them since it's hard not to start a conversation with someone 5' away. We have talked to a lot of people along the way, and many of them have had a lot of questions for me about my choice of transportation to Alaska... Very few people think to take a scooter. I figured it was a natural choice since I already own it, it's paid for, and it's easy to ride and can carry a lot of stuff on the back... Many ask how it rides – I tell them “I twist the throttle and it goes”, and that it's “smooth riding” I'm not sure what else to say. They ask if it can “keep up” and I tell them “Yup”

It is really weird for it to be light at 11:30pm and 5am. I did anticipate it however, and wear some really nice padded eye shades. They go nicely with the foam ear plugs... Along with the tent-cot and comfy mattress and pillow I think I can sleep anywhere now. We've sure put it to the test in some of the places we've stayed. Tonight the ground is lumpy and wet, but since I'm sitting on 6 legs I can prop them up with rocks as needed to level my tent. With my little “dog trot” in the middle I have a place to get dressed and to keep all of my stuff dry. It's not raining, but might as well be because the dew is very thick.

Well, tomorrow should see us riding past Laird River and Muncho lake, and into some better scenery. I'm looking forward to it (but not the construction!)